Download PDF High Crimes: The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed, by Michael Kodas

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High Crimes: The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed, by Michael Kodas

Download PDF High Crimes: The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed, by Michael Kodas

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Review

"The perfect follow-up to Krakauer's riveting account of a perfect storm."―Miami Herald"Kodas's absorbing description of the narrow moral compass governing human interaction at the top of the world is bound to shock both armchair adventurers and seasoned mountaineers."―Chicago Tribune"(Kodas) discovered more deceit, thievery, and double-crossing among his climbers than you find in a Martin Scorsese gangster film. High Crimes is both an adventure story and an expos of a sport riddled with danger and corruption."―Washington Post Book World"Kodas's descriptions of the struggles confronting even the best-prepared climbers leave the reader breathless."―Dallas Morning News"[High Crimes] is hair-raising and lays bare the excitement and fear that face great explorers at the top of the world. . . . Well written, and as deftly plotted as the finest mystery novel, Kodas brings to life a disturbing picture of society at high altitude."―Austin Chronicle"Kodas does an excellent job exposing the ways in which money and ego have corrupted the traditional cultures of both mountaineers and their Sherpa guides. . . . His narrative is as hard to turn away from as a slow-motion train wreck."―Publishers Weekly

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About the Author

A Pulitzer-Prize-winning journalist, Michael Kodas has made a mark as an outdoor adventure reporter and photographer. Since 1987, Kodas has worked at The Hartford Courant on a remarkable set of stories. His work has also been published in The Los Angeles Times, The Washington Post, The Boston Globe, The Chicago Tribune, Newsweek magazine, and Backpacker Magazine. He lives in Hartford, CT.

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Product details

Paperback: 384 pages

Publisher: Hachette Books (May 5, 2009)

Language: English

ISBN-10: 1401309844

ISBN-13: 978-1401309848

Product Dimensions:

5.2 x 1 x 8 inches

Shipping Weight: 12 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)

Average Customer Review:

4.0 out of 5 stars

194 customer reviews

Amazon Best Sellers Rank:

#749,792 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

I love this type of book (Jon Krakauer's books and some I've read about the Tour de France immediately come to mind), but this one gave me a headache. It's clear that Michael Kodas put a lot of time and effort into collecting this information, but the format he chose to use is painful. In this book, he is chronicling various mideeds over a 10+ year period. There are two or three (I'm not even sure) main stories that intersect or at least run somewhat parallel, but it's impossible to keep the characters and timelines straight with all the jumping around. It got to the point where I, who love this type of real story, wanted to toss this one. I was so confused that I just didn't care anymore.I struggled with this rating. It's well written, with no obvious typo/grammatical errors, but I don't know why his editor or publisher didn't suggest another way to tell these stories that would have been more reader-friendly or make the flow more coherent. I'm still not really sure what the "Fate of Everest" is because that wasn't really addressed in the end.

Well written, meticulously researched stories of very low behavior from the top of the world. Of all the Everest books I have read, no others have mentioned wide spread theft of oxygen, tents, warm clothing, sleeping bags, crampons, and even medications that could mean death to the rightful owners. This seems particularly prevalent on the higher camps where they do the most damage. Base Camp seems like a boom town in the California Gold Rush. Everything is for sale from T-shirts and alcohol to prostitution. Dishonest, incompetent guides preying on weekend warrior climbers are common and can also lead to death. These are sad, frightening tales.

Two stories show the problems on Everest. It is the bad side of human nature coming to the fore. It is a book need to read. It shows how need to take care, the mountain may kill you, but then again others may also kill you. Theft of essential gear, guides who are not. The old ideas of looking after others seem to be exactly that - old. The colourful characters may be the ones to avoid. Also the way people will do it on the cheap and either steal or hope others come to the rescue - when they may not. The story of David Sharp is poignant. It can take a bit to keep the narrative together but worth the effort.

Journalist and Everest veteran presents a picture of the great mountain as lawless and unregulated as a gold rush town in the 19th century. It is a fascinating account in which theft, fraud, negligence and mayhem are all present and accounted for.On a mountain in which the fragility of life is so evident even small crimes as sleeping in someone's tent and sleeping bag can be life threatening larger crimes can have dire consequences. As Kodas states:"Those attempting to domesticate The Goddess Mother of the Universe with ropes and satellites shouldn't be surprised that she isn't submitting gracefully to being a mere mortal's mountain."At high altitude with little oxygen the brain becomes impaired as does judgment at a time when they are both most needed. Memories blur and the mind becomes confused, reality becomes obscured. The focus becomes the summit and we find people quite willing to step past the dying in their quest for the top.Kodas explains that there are high stakes on Everest money, fame and prestige are all things which will bring out the criminal element. Selling dysfunctional oxygen containers, lying about experience, neglect and shirking responsibilities, spousal abuse, threats, assault and fraud are all detailed in High Crimes: The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed. If you find this interesting especially with the setting of Mount Everest, this is a book you should read.

I've read books about climbs to the summit of Everest, but this is the first one I've read to focus on the self-absorption, single-mindedness, and loss of human decency that accompanies preparations and the actual climbs on this mountain. To think that there are people who will take money to "lead" and supply a team of climbers, but then leave the paid customers to fend for themselves with equipment that fails, oxygen tanks that don't work, and lie about it all in such a dangerous place is so hard to understand. The stealing of food, sleeping bags, and equipment and refusal to assist people desperately in need of help shows a terrible loss of human decency in a deadly place. Admittedly, all climbers should be aware of the dangers and real possibility of not returning, but if one takes a lot of money assuring people they will be accompanied to the summit with proper equipment, that person should be relied upon to do that or be held accountable. Very interesting read.

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